Yesterday was one of those days with vague plans that turn out to be very rewarding. I set out again to find Frary’s Restaurant. I had read about it in “Time Out Venice” and it looked interesting. They had a special meal lunch price and Middle Eastern food. I had found it the day before, but it was closed.
When I say “set out again to find” I mean it. Since it is on the other side of the Grand Canal, you can walk on the main street filled with people that goes all the way around the edge of the canal and cross the bridge near the train station or take the traghetto across (a gondola for transporting people across the canal). In either case, you then have to wind your way through narrow streets and hope to find something familiar, or at least to identify where you are on the map.
The previous day I had walked all around, crossed the bridge, and then retraced my steps from an earlier venture to the blues bar. It turns out the restaurant was nearby. I really felt like another character in the Hansel and Gretel story, minus the bread crumbs. So yesterday I decided to take my chances with the traghetto route.
Here is a picture of Ca D’Oro, the palace near my vaporetto stop, from the other side of the canal, where I arrived after the quick traghetto ride. It used to be covered in gold, which explains the name, but only the ornate structure exists today. The gold is long gone.
I walked round and round and didn’t seem to get anywhere. It’s so disheartening to arrive at the same campo again and again and see the same man sitting on the well head (in every campo is an old well that used to be used, covered by a matching top) reading the same newspaper!
I finally got to a campo whose name I recognized, but couldn’t find on the map. I gave up and just started walking. I found someone who looked like a native and asked for directions. That sweet man said he was going there and he would show me the way! I was headed completely in the wrong direction!
I got to the restaurant, had a lovely, tasty lunch, and left. Dolmades and spicy chicken with rice. I was full, but decided there was still room for a gelato. But not just any gelato. After having Grom gelato on the street near me, I have become a gelato snob. So I wanted to find one I had read about in my various sources. Having this vague idea of finding good gelato after I had just been led to the campo I had unsuccessfully searched for, seemed a little audacious. But I set out, exploring new territory as I went along. I had no idea where I was, a feeling shared my many here. It’s part of the charm of Venice and what makes people who are lost talk to each other.
Suddenly I came upon this sign and it seemed slightly familiar.
It was Alaska Gelato, which I had read about and was on my list of places I wanted to find. There is a great app on the iPhone called Occhio Go Venezia, which I have been reading all this past year. It has recommendations and information about lots of different aspects of Venice: city info, transportation, tips and tricks, food, etc. I had read about Alaska gelato and the interesting flavors they had, such as artichoke and ginger. I went in and ordered a ginger cone. It was less than half the price at Grom. I’ve had ginger gelato before, but this had actual pieces of ginger in it and was delicious. As I was entering the second time to get another gelato and tell the man how much I enjoyed the one I had just finished (think: the bakery in San Rocco!) , a tour group was led inside, so I had to wait. I got my chance and he laughed to see me again so soon. I told him how much I enjoyed it and he said that not many places had ginger gelato. I told him about Holy Gelato in San Francisco and he actually wrote down the name. This time I had fig gelato, since I knew they were in season. When I told him why I had chosen fig and not pistacchio, which I also like, he took my cone back and put a dab of pistacchio on the top. Also excellent, fresh, and delicious. He told me to come back on Friday for artichoke gelato. He said he was going to go to the market to see if the second season of artichokes had arrived. Here is a picture of Carlo Pistacchi (his real name):
I just found the Alaska Gelato entry in my iPhone app and there are VERY specific directions on how to get there. I will used them tomorrow when I return for artichoke gelato! And I think I’d better consult the app for anything else I want to find!
Another quest was to find the scene I painted last year in my watercolor journal and which is partially shown at the top of this blog page. Here is a picture taken of me by Pierre Pareja, author of the Venice Daily Photo blog, which I promise to write about next! He asked me to show him my favorite watercolor.
I found it the day before, when the restaurant was closed, but it was overcast that day and the blue shades, which I like so much weren’t up. I found it again yesterday, but the first time it was too sunny. I went back later and got several much better shots. This year I noticed how beautiful the bridge was that I was standing on to take the picture. So I’ve included it in the following pictures. Do you recognize the scene?
And here is a shot of the bridge and its shadow:
My cell phone rang during my wanderings and Elisa, my landlady and friend, was calling to say she had returned from Morocco and wanted to know if I wanted some practice in listening to Italian. She was going to a meeting of students who were interested in studying Arabic at an adult education location near me. I was amazed at what I understood. They were deciding when to meet and where. Just as they agreed upon 5:30 to 7:30 every
Wednesday, the director came in and said that class wouldn’t be held unless they had 12 students. They only had 5. They were going to try to drum up more students from their friends. Then the mother of the Arabic teacher gave a pitch for a yoga class she was teaching. I confirmed all this with Elisa later. It was very satisfying to be understanding so much. This seems to be a first step for me. It is the same way that children learn a language.
Elisa and I walked (dawdled) along the street leading back to my street. We stopped in at various shops, sat and had a spritz, and then went to the fancy shop called Rizzo, where I went a few weeks ago, for me to get bread, olives, and cheese. She showed me various typical Venetian cookies and treats, but said to buy them at the Billa, where they would surely be cheaper.
She cleared up an incorrect notion that I wrote about here. The shared electricity bill was only for the stairway lighting, not the whole electricity bill for the month. That makes more sense. She gave me her share to reimburse my neighbor, Bruna, who I haven’t written about yet, but who is a university professor and lives downstairs.
After I feasted on the olives, large and green, and sweet gorgonzola cheese and bread baked with olives inside, I called Bruna and went downstairs to give her the money. She invited me to stay and watch a volleyball match between Italy and France. We watched the match, talked about our lives, had chamomile tea, and black licorice liqueur. A very nice evening and day.